Archive for the ‘Electronics’ Category

The ATS-3B

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

I’ve got too many electronics projects going, but I’ve already got my next one picked out. It’s KD1JV’s ATS-3B, billed as “the world’s smallest, lightest, six band HF CW rig.” Steve Weber, KD1JV, is a serial designer of QRP radios and accessories. The whole thing fits in an Altoids tin and puts out four watts on all bands. (My SW-40+ only puts out 2-2.5W.) It also has a DDS VFO and a built-in keyer. Band switching is done using removable band filter modules. The whole thing is controlled by a PIC microcontroller, which some people have reprogrammed for additional capabilities. It seems to be very well though of by those that have one.

The ATS-3B was designed by Steve to be the ideal radio for backpacking. He lives in New Hampshire and backpacks the Appalachian Trail often.  (ATS stands for Appalachian Trail Sprint.) I haven’t done much backpacking lately, but I’m looking to get back into it soon.

Most ham kits use through hole parts, which are easier for some people to handle. The ATS-3B uses lots of surface mount parts, allowing it to be very small. I’ve used surface mount parts on a couple of projects and actually prefer them. I’ve always soldered them by hand. Steve seems to prefer the solder paste/warming plate/embossing gun method. I’m not sure if I’d give that a try or stick with soldering by hand. Here’s a YouTube video of Steve doing it both ways.

Steve only offers ATS-3B kits periodically. I believe he’s offered them about three different times now. He’ll be offering them again sometime in late fall, and I’ll be ready. This will also be the last time Steve will offer this kit, as some of the parts he uses are being phased out. He’s already working on the ATS-4, which looks to be a very nice (though somewhat larger) radio.

Small Wonder Labs SW-40+

Monday, July 27th, 2009

As most of you know, I’m currently afflicted with the ham radio bug. I have a VHF radio I can use to talk locally, but nothing I can talk around the world on. For Christmas last year, Cassie got me (at my request) a Small Wonder Labs SW-40+ 40m QRP CW transceiver kit.

The 40m ham band is a good all-purpose band. It’s open to somewhere pretty much any time, day or night, even at this point in the solar cycle. QRP means it’s low-power. In this case, around 2.5 watts. Most commerical radios put out around 100W. CW means it only does Morse code, no voice, which means I’ll finally have to learn Morse code.

The SW+ series is well-regarded in the QRP community. There are models available for the 20m, 30m, 40m, and 80m bands. The kits are put together by a guy in New Hampshire. There’s a waiting list of around two months to get a SW+ kit.

Partially assembled SW-40+ board

The SW-40+ board with 8 of the 16 sections installed. I've added a couple of sections since this photo was taken.

A few weeks ago I finally got a chance to start putting mine together. The instructions that come with it basically say to build the whole thing, then test it. I’ve built some smaller kits before, but this is definitely my largest undertaking thus far, so I wanted some assurance things were going right as I built it. So, I’ve been using Chuck Adams’s, K7QO, guide to building the SW-40+. By following his guide, you build a section, then test it. He has it broken down into 16 sections, more or less. Some of the previous kits that I’ve built are used for testing.

You can see all the pictures from the construction process here. I’ll continue to add photos as I go along. I’ll post an update here occasionally too. So far I’ve installed the power supply, audio amplifier, keying, muting, audio preamplifier, receiver mixer/detector, IF crystal filter, receiver mixer, VFO, and transmitter mixer sections. That’s 10 of the 16 sections.

Testing the transmitter mixer section

Testing the transmitter mixer section by feeding the output of the transmitter mixer into the receiver.

A few months ago I bought a VE3DNL Marker Generator kit, but had never put it together. Chuck suggested using it to test the receiver mixer/detector section. It was a quick build, and the receiver mixer/detector section passed the test.

Testing Receiver w/ VE3DNL Marker Generator

VE3DNL Marker Generator board is on left of SW-40+ board. The VE3DNL transmits tones every 5kHz that can be picked up in the SW-40+ receiver.

After building the VFO section I wanted to have a look at the waveform. Chuck’s guide shows a nice sine wave. A friend had loaned me an oscilloscope for another project a few months ago, so I drug it out and set it up. To make a long story short, I was never able to view the VFO’s waveform on the oscilloscope. Something is wrong with either the probe or the oscilloscope itself. However, I was able to confirm that the VFO is running at around the correct frequency with the FCC-1 frequency counter I built a while back.

I have also built a K1EL K12 keyer to put in the SW-40+. As designed, the SW-40+ can only use a straight key. I wanted to be able to use iambic paddles, so I found the K12 keyer. It handles the input from the key and outputs perfectly spaced Morse Code. It sounds beautiful. It’s a pretty cool little device in its own right. I may do a post on it at some point.

K1EL K12 Keyer

The K1EL K12 keyer assembled.

More on the SW-40+ when I get a chance to work on it.

MintyBoost

Tuesday, March 3rd, 2009

As I mentioned, I got a soldering iron for Christmas (as requested), and the first kit I chose to put together was the MintyBoost Kit (v2.0) from Adafruit Industries. Make Magazine also sells it in their store. It’s a pretty popular kit, and if you haven’t heard of it before, well, you just don’t hang around in the right places. :)

The MintyBoost allows you to charge most USB-powered devices from two AA batteries. Actually, if you want to get creative you can connect anything that provides between two and five volts of DC. This guy uses two D batteries.

MintyBoost Components

The top of the MintyBoost circuit board with all components installed. To give you some idea of the sizes involved here, the PCB, from top to bottom, is about the size of a penny. Click on the image to go to its Flickr page. The Flickr image has notes describing the components and their purpose.

The primary purpose of this kit was for me to get some experience soldering. I’ve done a little soldering before, but very little, and never on a printed circuit board.

The heart of the MintyBoost is the LT1302 integrated circuit. There are a few capacitors to smooth out the input and output, a diode for reverse current protection, an inductor for the LT1302 to store energy to be converted, and some pull-up resistors to convince the USB device to charge. You can see the step-by-step building process here.

Apparently there’s no agreed upon standard for USB chargers. Most Apple products will charge if their two USB data lines are pulled high. The MintyBoost uses two 100k resistors for this. Other devices require other values of pull-up resistors or even pull-down resistors.

MintyBoost Soldering

The bottom of the MintyBoost circuit board after soldering.

The actual performance of the MintyBoost for charging my iPhone is a little disappointing. I get a little better than half a charge when using freshly charged Sanyo Eneloop AA batteries. At first I thought that the circuit could be improved by limiting the current through the MintyBoost with a single resistor. However, after I did the math correctly, that turned out to not be the case.

As it turns out, the iPhone just doesn’t charge very efficiently. USB (and thus the MintyBoost) provides 5V DC, but the iPhone battery is 3.3V. The iPhone undoubtedly uses a linear regulator in its charging circuit, which means it effectively turns into a heater when being charged. The extra voltage is just released as heat. Switching regulators are more efficient, but more complicated and expensive. Plus, when you’re charging from your computer or an outlet, it really doesn’t matter.

When I first saw the MintyBoost printed circuit board I thought both it and the pads on it were very small. Once I got started it was no problem though. It is easily doable as a first project.

I’ve got an Altoids gum tin ready for it to go in, but I need some more double-sided tape. I’ll post some more pictures once I get it in the tin.

More posts coming soon

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009

Hi there. Yes, I’m alive, and I’ve actually been doing some interesting things to post about, I just haven’t made time to post. I hope to remedy that soon.

Most of my “interesting stuff” is ham and/or electronics related. I got a soldering iron for Christmas, and I’ve put together a few kits and I’m in the process of putting together a few more, including an SDR receiver and a Morse code transceiver. I’ve also started tinkering with AVR microcontrollers.

During the holidays Luke got in the habit of going to sleep really late. After the holidays, he kept it up. I’d guess than during January, his average bedtime was 10:30pm. That doesn’t leave much time for dad to play with his toys. Luckily, he’s been going to sleep around 9pm the last week or so. He slipped a little tonight, but I’m not too worried about him regressing.

In other sleep-related news, we had been letting Liam sleep in his swing for the past few months. We knew it was a bad habit to form, but he slept so well in it. He went from getting up 2-3 times a night to 0-1 times a night. This week we finally decided it was time to break the habit. The first few nights were rough, but last night he only got up once. Luke got up once until he was about 15 months old (Liam is only 6 months old), so I don’t guess we can ask for much more.

So, if the boys keep up their good sleeping routines, you should be seeing a lot more posted here.

Make Magazine subscription?

Tuesday, December 16th, 2008

Would anyone care for a free subscription to Make Magazine? It’s time for me to renew, and they’re letting me give a free subscription to a friend. Send me an email with your mailing address if you’re interested. I’ll post a comment when the subscription’s been taken.